WorldWine Tasting Report


Baden - White Pinots

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Baden is THE German region par excellence for Burgundy varieties and this was certainly not compromised by the fact that, in our recent Riesling-Challenge organized at the beginning of this year, a wine from that region came out as one of the best three, far in front of some prestige crus from the Rheingau, the Mosel or the Palatinate. This is why, during the ProWein show at Dusseldorf, we agreed with the regional marketing body, the Gebietsweinwerbung Badischer Wein, upon the organisation of comprehensive tastings of these varieties for ENO WorldWine. The first part with 116 wines made from white Pinot grapes (Pinot blanc, Pinot gris, Auxerrois, Chardonnay), took place some days ago, the second with red Pinots (Spätburgunder, Frühburgunder) is to follow at the end of the summer.

Oberbergen am Kaiserstuhl (Foto: E. Supp)
Oberbergen on the Kaiserstuhl: The local co-operative produces good Pinot gris and blanc. (photo: E. Supp)

The results of our tastings were as much surprising as they were positive. Although Pinot blanc did not collect the highest average ratings - it fared about as well as Auxerrois and thus considerably behind Pinot gris and Chardonnay -, it was the variety which "supplied" the winner and five of our top ten wines whilst Pinot gris and Chardonnay only succeeded in occupying two, respectively three of these coveted positions. All in all, the tasted vintages - mostly 2012 with some wines from 2011 - fared considerably better than the roughly 600 wines of Burgundy varieties from Baden tasted in previous years.

Somehow strange seemd the extremly high level of CO2 in the Auxerrois wines, but we were not able to distinguish if this was a vintage typicity - as one commentator on Facebook said - or if the wines had been sexed up by a considerable CO2 addition. Anyway, with their alcohol content of about 2 or more degrees less than the wines of the other varieties, these Auxerrois wines proved to be the most perfect summer wines of the entire tasting.

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ENO WorldWine's 12 top scorers

*****Knab (Endingen) - Endinger Engelsberg Weißburgunder 2011
*****Staatsweingut Karlsruhe - Durlach (Karlsruhe) - Baden Weißburgunder 2012 Kabinett tr.
*****Knab (Endingen) - Endinger Engelsberg Chardonnay Barrique 2011 tr.
*****Dr. Heger (Ihringen) - Ihringer Winklerberg Chardonnay Barrique 2011 tr.
***** ?Seeger (Leimen) - Heidelberger Herrenberg Grauer Burgunder AS 2012 tr.
***** ?Alexander Laible (Durbach) - Baden Chardonnay SL *** 2012 tr.
**** +Alexander Laible (Durbach) - Baden Weißer Burgunder SL *** 2012 tr.
**** +Dr. Heger (Ihringen) - Ihringer Winklerberg Weißburgunder *** 2012 tr.
**** +Dr. Heger (Ihringen) - Achkarrer Schlossberg Weißburgunder *** 2011 GG
**** +Knab (Endingen) - Baden Grauer Burgunder *** 2011 Spätlese tr.
**** +G. & T. Schätzle (Vogtsburg-Schelingen) - Schelinger Kirchberg Grauburgunder RS 2011 Reserve tr.
****Friedrich Kiefer (Eichstetten) - Eichstetter Herrenbuck Chardonnay 2012 Kabinett tr.

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