WorldWine Tasting Highlight

2013-06-17

Just Sangiovese? Far from it!

the wines

Just Sangiovese, nothing else! This is, if you trust a vast majority of wine critics, vintners and oenologists, the only valid philosophy of winemaking in Tuscany, Italy's prestige region. At La Massa, one of the absolute top estates in Panzano, they took the opposite road. With amazingly succesful results, as was proven by a small tasting of recent vintages, organised in Hamburg a few weeks ago.


Panzano, a "frazione" of the Chianti Classico town of Greve, owns, in its so called "conca d'oro", the gold bowl, some of the best vineyards of central Tuscany. Here, Giampaolo Motta of La Massa does not only grow Sangiovese but, with amazing success, Cabernet and Merlot too. (photos: E. Supp)

Giampaolo Motta who, at the beginning of the 1990ies had abandoned the predetermined career in his family's tannery at Naples and, after an apprenticeship at the estates of Castello di Rampolla and Riecine, bought this not really famous estate and begann producing wines after his own ideas, definitely likes swimming upstream. When the whole winemaking world believed in Super Tuscans, he became set on producing Chianti Classico in a rather classical style. And when everyone switched around towards more or less single variety Sangiovese wines, he completely re-considered his philosophy and eliminated the tuscan Sangiovese from his top cuvee. Giorgio I (read: primo), this the name of the top wine, has been produced from Cabernet and Merlot grapes only, since 2007.

The surprising reason behind this move? For Giampaolo, the Sangiovese part in his Giorgio I was to be blamed for the lack of fruit and elegance, for too harsh, in some years even dry tannins. The move succeeded, as our recent tasting report Tuscany 2013 already demonstrated, and even the base wine of the estate, the La Massa, benefited from it, now incorporating the better part of the estate's Sangiovese which previously had finished in the Giorgio I.

The first vintage of the new blend, 2007, already showed superior elegance and profoundness, two virtues which were even topped by the stil very young 2009 vintage. A vintage which, if such proof was needed, proves that even wines made from "french" varieties can display typically tuscan finesse and vitality. As for the 2011 vintage of the La Massa, it is a wine which probably makes many producers of Super Tuscans jealous of such a "base" wine and equally benefits of the new philosophy: it is fruit and elegance in perfection.


You can support us through a direct donation.

 Our complete wine database (50,000 wines)

The wines

for detailed descriptions see the German pages

*****Fattoria La Massa - 50020 Greve In Chianti, Toscana Igt Giorgio I 2009
*****Fattoria La Massa - 50020 Greve In Chianti, Toscana Igt Giorgio I 2007
*****Fattoria La Massa - 50020 Greve In Chianti, Toscana Igt La Massa 2011
*****Fattoria La Massa - 50020 Greve In Chianti, Toscana Igt Giorgio I 2010
***** ?Fattoria La Massa - 50020 Greve In Chianti, Toscana Igt La Massa 2010
**** +Fattoria La Massa - 50020 Greve In Chianti, Toscana Igt La Massa 2007
**** +Fattoria La Massa - 50020 Greve In Chianti, Toscana Igt Giorgio I 2008

Kommentieren Sie diesen Artikel / Your comment

CAPTCHA

Bitte tragen Sie die untenstehenden Zeichen in das Eingabefeld ein. Captcha hilft uns bei der Vermeidung von automatisierten Eingaben.