WorldWine Tasting Report

2013-05-24

Piedmont 2013

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Piedmont is always worth the journey. Evidence of this was provided, just a week ago, by close to 500 wines from Barolo, Barbaresco and their surroundings, which we were able to taste during the annual Nebbiolo Prima, which we had been invited to attend by the Albeisa association. Well, the vintages were not the happiest ones: 2010 for Roero and Barbaresco and 2009 for Barolo. While the latter had brought about very compact, full bodied wines which unfortunately did not always show enough finesse and too often featured dry or even bitter tannins, quite a lot of the wines from 2010 suffered from high acidities and accused a lack of profoundness on the palate despite a certain elegance.


The areas of Barolo (above) and Barbaresco (below) yield top wines by the dozen - even in difficult vintages. (photos: E. Supp)

Thus, it must not surprise that only a minor part of the top rated wines of this tasting report came from those two vintages although they had supplied more than 90 % of all samples which we had been able to taste in Alba and on some other occasions such as the recent ProWein.

Although the situation is still somehow difficult and some producers like Luigi Baudana in Serralunga, whose wines are now produced and distributed by Aldo Vajra, still seem to suffer from the economic situation, the overall sentiment was quite positive and the crisis in Piedmont could be about to come to an end.

What we had already mentioned in our recent report on Tuscany proved true for Piedmont as well: The number of samples which are not openly corked but nonetheless show clearly bottle-related problems is increasing at a dramatic speed. Faulty smells and strange, scratchy-bitter tastes which cannot be attributed to the tannins, both of them disappearing as soon as you open a second bottle, are ruining more and more wines. The problem for producers and winemakers: These faults cannot be clearly attributed to the corks, even if I'm pretty sure they should, but will be imputed to the wine respectively to the producer by consumers who, very often do not have the possibility to compare different bottles of the same wine.

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Our complete tastings (comments in German)

Abbona - Caviola
Ca du Rabaja - Gemma
Germano - Oddero
Oddero - Rocca
Rocca - Voerzio
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ENO WorldWine's 43 top scorers

*****Gaja (Barbaresco) - Langhe rosso Sorì San Lorenzo 2009
 
*****Gaja (Barbaresco) - Langhe rosso Sperss 2008
 
*****Albino Rocca (Barbaresco) - Barbaresco Ronchi 2004
 
*****Gaja (Barbaresco) - Langhe rosso Sperss 1999
 
***** +Cascina Nuova-Elio Altare (La Morra) - Barolo Cerretta 2009
 
***** +Armando Parusso-F.lli Parusso (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo Bussia 2008
 
*****E. Pira & figli - Chiara Boschis (Barolo) - Barolo DOCG Mosconi 2009
 
*****Roccheviberti (Castiglione Falletto) - Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2009
 
*****Albino Rocca (Barbaresco) - Barbaresco Ronchi 2006
 
*****Gaja (Barbaresco) - Langhe rosso Costa Russi 2009
 
*****Mauro Veglio (La Morra) - Barolo Castelletto 2009
 
*****Cascina Nuova-Elio Altare (La Morra) - Barolo Vigneto Arborina 2009
 
*****Domenico Clerico (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo Pajana 2008
 
*****Giuliano Corino (La Morra) - Barolo Vigna Giachini 2009
 
*****E. Pira & figli - Chiara Boschis (Barolo) - Barolo Cannubi 2009
 
*****Montanello (Castiglione Falletto) - Barolo Montanello 2008
 
*****Luigino Grimaldi (Diano D'Alba) - Barbaresco Vigna Manzola 2010
 
*****Nada Ada - G. Nada (Treiso) - Barbaresco Valeirano 2010
 
*****La Ganghija - E. Rapalino (Treiso) - Barbaresco 2010
 
*****Castello di Neive (Neive) - Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2010
 
*****Angelo Germano (La Morra) - Barolo Cascina San Martino Vigna Ruè 2009
 
*****Prunotto Srl (Alba) - Barolo Bussia 1982
 
*****Gaja (Barbaresco) - Langhe rosso Sorì Tildin 2009
 
*****Armando Parusso-F.lli Parusso (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo Bussia 2006
 
*****Castello di Neive (Neive) - Barbaresco Gallina 2010
 
*****Albino Rocca (Barbaresco) - Barbaresco Ronchi 2009
 
*****Crissante Alessandria (La Morra) - Barolo Punta dei Capalot 2009
 
*****Massimo Penna (Alba) - Barolo La Serra 2009
 
*****Conterno-Fantino (Monforte D'Alba) - Barbera d'Alba Vignota 2006
 
*****F.lli Cigliuti (Neive) - Barbaresco Serraboella 2004
 
*****Conterno-Fantino (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo Mosconi 2006
 
*****Costa di Bussia - Tenuta Arnulfo Ss (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo Campo dei Buoi 2009
 
*****Conterno-Fantino (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo Sorì Ginestra 2009
 
*****Gianfranco Alessandria (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo 2009
 
*****Vigna Rionda S. S. - F.lli Massolino (Serralunga d’Alba) - Barolo Parafada 2009
 
*****Armando Parusso-F.lli Parusso (Monforte D'Alba) - Barolo 2005 Riserva
 
*****Quinto Chionetti & figlio (Dogliani) - Dolcetto di Dogliani Briccolero 2011
 
*****Bricco Boschis-F.lli Cavallotto (Castiglione Falletto) - Barolo Bricco Boschis Vigna del Cuculo 2007 Riserva
 
*****Cascina Cucco (Serralunga d’Alba) - Barolo Cerrati Vigna Cucco 2007 Riserva
 
*****Armando Parusso-F.lli Parusso (Monforte D'Alba) - VdT Testone bianco 2011
 
*****Giovanni Sordo (Castiglione Falletto) - Barolo Ceretta di Perno 2007 Riserva
 
*****Franco Molino (La Morra) - Barolo Villero 2007 Riserva
 
*****Giuliano Corino (La Morra) - Barolo Vecchie Vigne 2007

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