WorldWine Tasting Report

2012-04-05

Tuscany 2012

Our top wines             
 

It looked like a really good vintage, this 2010 in Tuscany. As good as in Bordeaux or even in Burgundy. But obviously it still was far too early to assess this vintage definitely, only having tasted two or three dozens of Chianti Classico during the recent anteprima of the three Tuscan top appellations Brunello, Chianti Classico and Nobile di Montepulciano. Anyway, these Chianti Classicos left a very positive impression and if it were possible to project this impression onto the entire Tuscan wine production of 2010 we probably could expect many more excellent wines.

Even the 2009 was not really bad, at least as far as Chianti Classico is concerned, whereas other appellations showed up much weaker, which, for the moment, creates an uncertain impression of the whole vintages as the Brunellos are not yet out for assessment. Entirely convincing, on the other hand, was the impression of the 2007 Brunellos which we were able to taste at Montalcino. Their average quality was high above that of all other vintages since 2000, higher even than that of Nobile and Chianti Classico which had already shown an exiting level of excellence when we tasted them, some years ago.

Even if the average quality of the 2007 Brunellos was high, we did not find many really outstanding "dream wines", a fact that migh be due to the absence of some of the appellations best producers from the anteprima tasting: a real scandal, if you consider that 200 or more of the world's most specialized wine critics come to Tuscany in order to taste and assess the quality of the regions best wines. Just imagine all the Latours, Pétrus', Moutons or Lafites not participating at the annual Bordeaux primeur tastings ...

It is a shame, even if not quite uncommon in Italy, as it happens as well at the annual tastings in Piemont or Veneto (Amarone) as well. And it is particularly disgraceful as many of the producers who do not present their wines during the anteprima have no scruples to invite the journalists, who's trip to Tuscany has been paid by their collegues and competitors, for private tastings in their cellars. Call it parasitism ....

Well, after having tasted about 2,000 wines of the first 10 vintages of this millennium, it's three vintages which emerge as the top ones: 2004, 2006 and 2007, and this is true for all of the three top appellations, Brunello, Chianti Classico and Nobile. Our average rating of these 10 vintages is about one (out of three) level higher than the total of all 6,000 tasting notes from Tuscany which we keep in our archives. The 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2008 and 2009 vintages correspond to the second, the average level, with differences between the single appellations summing up in a way that there is very little disparity between the overall ratings. Only the 2002 vintages ranks one level lower.

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*****Riecine (Gaiole In Chianti) - Toscana Igt La Gioia 2007
 
***** +Fontodi (Greve In Chianti) - Igt Colli Toscana Centrale Flaccianello della Pieve 2008
 
***** +Cerbaiola - G. Salvioni (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2007
 
***** +Capanna di Cencioni (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2007
 
***** +La Rasina - M. Mantengoli (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino Il Divasco 2006 Riserva
 
***** +Capanna di Cencioni (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
 
*****Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano (Gaiole In Chianti) - Chianti Classico 2010
 
*****Tenuta di Bibbiano (Castellina In Chianti) - Chianti Classico Montornello 2010
 
*****Panzanello (Greve In Chianti) - Toscana Igt Vindea 2006
 
*****Tenuta Oliveto (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
 
*****Castello di Ama Spa (Gaiole In Chianti) - Toscana Igt Merlot Vigna l'Apparita 1988
 
*****SIA Felsina Spa - Fattoria di Felsina (Castelnuovo Berardenga) - Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2001
 
*****Candialle (Greve In Chianti) - Chianti Classico 2009
 
*****Luigi Cecchi & figli Srl (Castellina In Chianti) - Chianti Classico Riserva di Famiglia 2009 Riserva
 
*****Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano (Gaiole In Chianti) - Chianti Classico Le Baroncole 2009 Riserva
 
*****Tenuta di Bibbiano (Castellina In Chianti) - Toscana Igt Domino 2007
 
*****Castello di Meleto - Viticola Toscana Spa (Gaiole In Chianti) - Chianti Classico Vigna Casi 2006 Riserva
 
*****Fattoria della Talosa (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
 
*****Fattoria Isole e Olena-SIA Alto Chianti (Barberino Val D'Elsa) - Toscana Igt Cepparello 2008
 
*****Fontodi (Greve In Chianti) - Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo 2008 Riserva
 
*****Tenuta Valdipiatta (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
 
*****Godiolo (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
 
*****Poderi Boscarelli (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
 
*****Terre Bindella Spa - Podere Vallocaia (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG I Quadri 2009
 
*****Nottola (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano Vigna del Fattore 2008 Riserva
 
*****Poliziano (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone 2009
 
*****Poderi Boscarelli (Montepulciano) - Nobile di Montepulciano Nocio 2007 Riserva
 
*****Poderi Boscarelli (Montepulciano) - Toscana Igt Boscarelli 2007
 
*****Cupano (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2007
 
*****Il Poggiolo - Eredi R. Cosimi (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino Terra Rossa 2007 Riserva
 
*****Corte Pavone - R. Loacker (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2007
 
*****La Vigna - A. Rubegni (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2007
 
*****Fattoria dei Barbi (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Fiore 2007
 
*****Il Poggione - Propr. Francheschi (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Paganello 2006 Riserva
 
*****La Palazzetta - Flavio Fanti (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
 
*****San Filippo - R. Gianelli (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
 
*****La Fuga - Tenute A. & G. Folonari (Montalcino) - Brunello di Montalcino Due Sorelle 2006 Riserva

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