WorldWine Tasting Report

2013-04-14

Tuscany 2013

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No, it was no real pleasure to deal with all these cork taints. I had just written on Facebook, some days only before the start of the tastings, that the "real", the "hard" cork tastes had become fewer, that cork taints showed in a more subtle way, as Tuscany proved me completely wrong. During the "Anteprima"-tastings in february I had not noted an unnormal level of corky wines, but those bottles obviously had already been "filtered" by the serving sommeliers. All the more salient were these stinking bottles among those 80+ samples which I had asked the producers to send to Hamburg, among them many of the absolute top wines of Tuscany like Cepparello, Solaia, Tignanello, Giorgio I, Rancia, Montesodi or Flaccianello. They showed a rather conspicuous level of TCA and made me desperately ask when, finally, the message of screw caps will get through to Italy in general and Tuscany in particular.


Even an absolute dream panorama like this one of Siena in the morning dust was not enough to hide the unacceptable working conditions of part of the three "anteprime": accomodation where, in spite of the cold, the heating was shut down at 10 pm, hours of waiting for badly organized transfer buses in the cold .... (Foto: E. Supp)

Apart from the cork problems, the central Italian region with its top wines offered the same positive picture as in the years before. Two dream wines and number of runners up was what we were able to find among the 300+ tasted bottles. Most of the names on the labels of these top wines were those of the "usual suspects" but all the more enjoyable was the fact that, for the first time, wineries such as Montemercurio, Lombardo, Biserno, Cerbaia - Chollet and La Fiorita made it into the 5-star category or came at least close to it.

As far as the organization was concerned, it reached, in spite of a very professional routine in Florence (Chianti Classico), a sad peak of unacceptability. Accomodation beyond the pale, hours of waiting in the cold for badly organized buses and so on. It made me decide to do without this tiring and completely unefficient journey, next year, and to ask for the samples to be sent to Hamburg.

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